Medieval Hosen “Hound of War”
Two-tone woolen chausses with codpiece
Initially, men's pants of 11-14 centuries were two separate pant leg-like pieces. Attached to the belt on the line of the pelvis or to the braies with laces, they covered full length of each leg. Under the knee they were further fastened with cords or leather straps with buckles to avoid slipping. Only in the 14th century, the two legs were combined into a single piece, resembling modern tights. Single hosen were traditionally worn with a shorter top, like pourpoint, short gambeson or padded jack.
In the light of literary sources, the choses were usually made out of wool with diagonal weave, named twill, as it featured stretch. Could be both tight-fitting or a little more spacious. We cut them on bias for stretch and also added back lacing at the calves for a better fit. Special loops under the feet, like stirrups, serve to avoid unwanted turning up while putting on boots.
The most common colors were black, brown, green. Special chic was a combination of two different colors when each leg is different color. Red was still most fashionable color together with its shades - scarlet, crimson, carmine, which considered wealth, because of expensive dyes.
A remarkable triangular flap that covers the groin, is delicately attached with lacing. As long ago as in the 16th century the chausses were replaced with breeches, which had no codpiece, rather buttons on the front panel. Therefore, we strongly recommend getting the hosen with codpiece now, until this intriguing detail is out of fashion!
Please note that dark blue wool has a very dark shade, that may appear black under electric light indoors.
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