Water: no hotter than 30°C (86°F)Setting/ spin cycle: gentle/ delicate Dry: in the shade
Do not pre-soak linen!
Water: no hotter than 40°C (104°F)Setting/ spin cycle: gentle/ delicate Dry: in the shade.
DO NOT WASH! Dry clean only. Wipe away stains on the spot with a cloth and warm water.
To keep wool nice we recommend airing it in the fresh air between wears, and storing it somewhere moisture-free once it is completely dry of any perspiration or rain. Wear underclothes to protect your wool from sweat.
Water: no hotter than 30°C (86°F)Setting/ spin cycle: gentle/ delicate Dry: On a flat surface
Silk items should be dry cleaned.
Silk items can also be hand washed in cold or lukewarm water. After laundering, let the water drain off, and then lie the garment in a horizontal position to dry. We recommend putting a towel down on a table or large flat space where it won’t be stepped on.
DO NOT WASH! Dry clean only. If required, spot clean with a damp cloth.
DO NOT WASH! Leather can be wiped gently with a damp cloth or leather cleaner to spot clean, but should not be otherwise laundered.
Dresses and other products containing boning should only be carefully hand washed and dried flat, or dry cleaned.
This kind of embellishments makes our items stunning, but do require a bit of extra care.
Any item with embroidery should only be very carefully hand washed in cold water. After laundering, let the water drain off, and then lie the garment in a horizontal position to dry. We recommend putting a towel down on a table or large flat space where it won’t be stepped on or attacked by cats.
We don’t recommend washing any of the lacing that comes with our garments. If required, spot clean with a damp cloth.
The first line of defense for leather care is preventative. You want to treat your items with respect each and every time you wear them, which will reduce the amount of work you have to put into them later on. Preventative leather care is always easier than treatment! Rotating
When attending damp medieval events, never wear the same footwear two days in a row. Bring two pairs of shoes and rotate them, giving the other pair a chance to breathe and dry before wearing them again.
After each use, brush any dirt or debris off of the shoes and check to see if any maintenance is required. Pay special attention to the area between the sole and the upper - if there is mud or dirt caked in here, it can lead to the stitching or glue deteriorating. A damp cloth will often go a long way in keeping leather clean - don’t feel like you need any special products for surface level care.
If the thin rubber sole on the bottom of the shoe is beginning to peel, ensure you tack it back down with shoe glue before you wear it again. These peel quite easily in moisture, and if not glued back down they can continue to peel.
Creams and oils aren’t the only way to maintain and shine a shoe - brushing with a horsehair (or similar) brush can help bring back the shine to your shoe and keep it looking like new without the need for products. This will also cause it to have a nice patina.
Store your shoes in a dry place, preferably with a wooden shoe tree inside to help it keep the shape. If you don’t have any shoe trees, scrunched up newspaper also works just fine. Store your shoes in a shoe bag (or that handy ArmStreet linen bag that comes with many of our orders!) To keep dust off of them.
No matter how much daily maintenance you do to your footwear, there will come a time when you need to condition them. We recommend using a treatment on your leather to keep it flexible and supple. Dry leather is more prone to cracking and deteriorating, so paying attention to its condition will help you extend its life.
The frequency of conditioning will depend on how you wear your shoes - are they only worn once a year for a big event, and mostly indoors? They won’t require quite as much conditioning and care. Do you wear them once a week for hours at a time, trudging through mud and rain? They’ll require much more maintenance. If you're wearing them often, conditioning them every month is usually recommended.
The first thing to remember about treatment and products: less is more. You don’t want to overdo it and absolutely drench your item. It’s best to start with a minimal amount of cream, wax or oil and build it up if you feel like you need more. Over-conditioning can lead to your shoe losing structure, wrinkling or stretching, and the leather to become more easily scratched - similar to if you don’t let your shoes dry between wears.
Don't forget to take your laces out before you condition your shoes, and insert newspaper or shoe trees to help them keep their shape!
Many leather cleaners are too abrasive, so we always recommend looking for something gentle, and only use Saddle Soap or other more harsh cleaners if you’re trying to remove built-up wax or product from your leather.
As mentioned above, the best thing to go for is a glycerin-based gentle dish soap or washing detergent and lightly apply the lather to your shoes, working in circles with a soft sponge. Scrubbing a stain with harsh cleaners is more likely to strip the leather of its finish than it is to actually remove the stain, so sometimes it’s best just to let it be and accept it as a part of the boot! Make sure you let your shoe dry entirely before you condition it.
This kind of conditioner can come in many different colors, including clear. Usually, these will add moisture to your shoes as well as add a thin, protective barrier over top. If you have stains or scuffs, a cream often won’t cover these, but it will restore the life to your leather without impacting the overall texture too much.
This is great for polishing, covering up any scuffs you’ve acquired, and smoothing out the texture of your leather. Lots of shoe waxes come in different colors to match your shoes, which can help restore color where it has faded. Just be careful with over applying wax - too much can dry out your shoes, and over time wax will build up and crack. Wax can also come in clear, which is perfect for difficult to match colors.
Leather oil (such as neatsfoot) can be difficult to get right, but when applied sparingly it can do a lot to restore the luster without destroying the patina of your shoe. Ensure you are using a very small amount of oil, and keep in mind that the best oil to use is usually animal-based (as leather is also animal-based). Plant-based oils such as coconut oil or olive oil are unstable and have the tendency to go rancid, so we don’t recommend them.
If the outer sole of your shoe has come away to the extent that it can’t just be glued back down with a bit of shoe glue, we recommend getting in touch with your local cobbler about having the footwear resoled. Medieval shoes are bound to require a resoling at some point in their life, and unless you’re an experienced leatherworker, it’s not something you can really do at home.
Products made of stainless steel doesn't require any special care. You can clean and polish them with a dry soft cloth and any sort of oil (for example, waste engine oil). Water ingress is permissible, but not desirable (do not wipe the product with a damp cloth, do not immerse in water, do not wash in the washing machine). After each use, the armor should be cleaned and wiped dry.
Historically accurate mild steel is more fragile, it rusts and stains easily, so should be treated with respect. Water ingress is absolutely unacceptable and must be excluded. Mild steel items should be dried and cleaned with a dry soft cloth thoroughly after each use to avoid rusting. Light application of WD-40 or T-9 spray before and after use will help to prevent rust, or just rub with mineral oil to form a protective coating that prevents rusting in storage. Storage away from the sources of humidity with the silica gel packets would be ideal.
With time and wear, the brass may tarnish and oxidize, becoming somewhat darker and more natural looking. To polish and keep it bright, simply wipe it with a dry cloth and a little lemon juice or vinegar. There are also special fabrics to clean the brass in jewelry stores and hardware stores. Water ingress is permissible, but not desirable (take your brass jewelry off before taking a shower). The best way to store the brass is in an airtight box.
Protect the leather from damage and wipe with a dry soft sponge to remove dirt. Leather items can be cleaned with a cloth soaked with castor oil, vaseline or glycerin for sheening. Do not rub hard, as the outer fibers may be damaged and the leather will loose its quality and appearance. Wet leather can not be dried near the battery and heating devices.